119. Tickling the Ghanaian - Encounters with Contemporary Culture by Kofi Akpabli

Title: Tickling the Ghanaian - Encounters with Contemporary Culture

Author: Kofi Akpabli

Genre: Non-Fiction/Contemporary Culture

Publishers: TREC

Pages: 142

Year of First Publication: 2011

Country: Ghana

For Kinna's Ghana Literature Week

Kofi Akpabli is a creative writer I have come to admire. His is a journalism completely circumscribed by the field of Creative Writing. His style, of combining keen observation, difficult questions and mirthful writing, makes him unique in this expansive field of words, sentences and descriptions; a field where most practitioners resort to sensationalism, outright lies, and trivialisation, stretching an already suspicious occupation to its negative extremum, to grab people's attention and glean some fame for themselves. Such is the shitload on discerning ears that some, having exceeded their elastic limit, have tuned out from radio, permanently. To such individuals, Akpabli's writing has come as a relief. For having gone through the proverbial mill, Kofi Akpabli's method is refined. His dedication to his craft has been appreciated by winning, on two consecutive occasions, the CNN/Multichoice African Journalist for Arts and Culture - the first person to do so. 

Whereas Akpabli's first book A Sense of Savannah grew from his travels - mostly through northern Ghana - Tickling the Ghanaian is a compilation of thirteen published articles including The Serious Business of Soup in Ghana and What is Right with Akpeteshie, which won him the 2010 and 2011 awards respectively.

From How Cloths tickle the Ghanaian to This is the Way we say Goodbye, Kofi presents in this book articles which take an infinite look at the multi-dimensionalities of contemporary Ghanaian culture; contemporary, in that some of what is discussed are leftovers from colonisation - those that we imbibed, localised and refused to grant independence to or decolonise both at the peak of our furor and euphoria for independence. With themes on Christmas reminiscences, the vanishing taste of food, food shunned and loved, fashion, drinks, funerals and bargaining, Kofi takes us on a tour of Ghana's cultural idiosyncrasies. He looks at every topic exhaustively.

The book opens with How Cloths tickle the Ghanaian. Here the history, types, functions and sources of cloths and how certain kinds of cloths, especially those coming from Holland (like Vlisco/Dumas) have come to signify class and status in the society are detailedly discussed. Whether discussing the childhood uses of cloths, its social (among the citizenry) and traditional (between the citizenry and the chieftain) status, its use in traditional dances, like agbadza, or any of its numerous uses, Kofi weaves wit, knowledge, and love into each line providing the reader with a sense of satisfaction that only comes from reading a well-researched piece. In one of such various functions of the cloth among the Ewes (these are group of people to be found mainly in the Volta Region of Ghana and spreads through Togo and parts of Benin) Kofi writes

Among the Ewe people, the sleeping cloth is so important that it has a personality of its own. It even has a name, Zavor. Zavor simply means "night cloth" and it is the closest companion one could ever have in life. 

Over time, Zavor adopts one's personality. Indeed, few items hoard specimen of an individual's DNA like the night cloth) come on, what with all those body fluids). Among the boarding school boys and bachelors, Zavor has a special reputation for smelling bad. [18] 

In Ghanaman and the Rastaman the writer writes from experience when he had locks. He talks of how he was consistently thought to be a user of hemp and how people preferred to address him as belonging to the Rastafarian faith. The Serious Business of Soup in Ghana compares what Ghanaians refer to as soup and what is described as Soup in Europe and America. How soup could be drunk in a cup; how it could contain sugar and alcohol; how soup could be pepper-less, still bothers me. In this humorous description of Soup, Kofi writes

What is soup? Philosophically, soup is what makes the Ghanaian say "I haven't eaten all day" simply because all he or she has had did not contain a soup item. Soup is what makes people look forward to going home after a long day's work. Again, soup is what gingers up nostalgia for homely, far away places. Finally, soup (especially, when taken hot) is what helps critical minds to form opinion on serious issues. [32]

What more could one ask for? Yet, Kofi provided a detailed write-up on all the types and functions of soup interspersing it with titillating soup stories.

In The Rise of the Schnapps, Kofi investigates how this Dutch drink has risen to occupy a position that used to be the preserve of the local gin, akpeteshie; today at no traditional ceremony, be it naming ceremony, festivals, or engagement, can one not find Schnapps. Between Tinapa and Boflot - where did the old Taste go questions whether foods are losing their cherished tastes especially comparing old brands with the current bland brands.

Other issues investigated include the art of bargaining, which is a psychological warfare that could be studied under Game Theory. Here each player anticipates the other's move before he plays or makes his move.  Nash equilibrium is reached when both parties are satisfied with the outcome of their final moves, else there is no trade: the buyer getting value for his money and the seller too. Unlike in shopping malls,boutiques and other places where prices are fixed, the majority of trade in Ghana is governed by this art. Those who are well versed in this art always come out satisfied. This is discussed under the chapter heading Dongomi and Albarika - The Ghanaian Art of Bargaining. Here it is only right that I quote from Kofi's repertoire of humorous, yet truthful lines:

The Ghanaian's bargaining habit is also expressed at fetish consultations. Usually when a priest mentions the items needed to perform a ritual it is considered spiritually critical. Therefore, folks  do not subject it to common market-place negotiation.

However, there are times when the items demanded are simply impossible. For instance, a gourd, half-filled with the very first collection of late season rain, the egg shells of a maiden vulture and the midnight droppings of a pregnant elephant.

Because of the difficulty in obtaining these items, clients would manage a bargain of sort: "Errm, Mighty One, we have heard but; can you plead with your Honourable Deities to quantify everything in monetary terms?" [66]

The remaining topics include Things we do for Rings; The Truth about Fufu; Ghana vrs Naija - rubbing shoulders with a Giant; Batakari has spoken; Why Kokonte is facing the Wall; What is Right with Akpeteshie; and This is the way we say Goodbye. 

In What is Right with Akpeteshie, Kofi discusses the functions and origins of this local gin that has devastated so many homes and yet is one of the hottest commodities on the market. Though its effects - when taken in excess - are known, demand is high even if it has fallen from grace. People would love to hide or pretend to be not taking it. But it is the drink that has the heaviest repertoire of aliases. Whenever you hear blue kiosk you know there is a reference to this drink. Our reaction to this drink is similar to that of a local food kokonte which the author also discussed. But in Why Kokonte is facing the Wall, the author pointed out our hypocrisy with this food; a food that virtually saved Ghanaians from the massive famine the raged the country in the early 1980s, a food one would eat and sweat in a corner of his home but would swear he has never seen it before.

In the last title the author discusses how Ghanaians cherish funerals and how people go to all lengths to give their departed ones (loved or not) a befitting burial. It has become an industry on its own with different shapes and styles of coffin.

Throughout the book, Kofi treats the reader to insightful information and even when he seems not to be saying that 'let's be careful' he says it in a subtle way without sounding preachy and presenting the facts from both sides does the trick for him. With this style and delivery Kofi is set to go farther with his works.

This book is highly recommended. The reader is bound to learn a lot about Ghanaians, an aspect which would not be found in any text book about Ghana nor taught in any place of learning: higher or lower. What is in this book are the things that make Ghana, Ghana; the things that people associate with. In brief, this provides a sort of informal history of events and things of Ghana.

ASIDE: This book is similar in some thin respect to the one I am currently reading - Imported Ghanaian. What differs most is the approach, so that whereas Kofi looks at the more positive side, bringing out the fun and showing us we aren't that bad, the author of the current book takes a vitriolic take on Ghanaians and their behaviours.

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About the author: Read about Kofi Akpabli here. 

Conversation with Kofi Akpabli, author of 'A Sense of Savannah' and 'Tickling the Ghanaian'

This interview was conducted before the launch of Kofi Akpali's latest book Tickling the Ghanaian: Encounters with Contemporary Culture, as a result this interview focuses on his first book A Sense of Savannah: Tales of a Friendly Walk through Northern Ghana.

How did you come to write this travelogue?

I had the good fortune of being ‘thrown’ off to the north easternmost part of Ghana to do my national service. For a first timer it was a curious, exotic world. My sense of adventure and my curious nature did the rest. By the first three months, I had seen most part of the region including parts of the upper west and Northern Region.

Would you even consider this a travelogue?

Yes. It is. I had to travel to write every piece. As a freelance writer and journalist I can confide in you that I am in my element when I do travel writing. I enjoy doing it.

This book brings smiles to the lips and cheeks of the reader, sometimes even guffaws. You employed a lot of humour in your writing. Was this your first reaction even as you were experiencing these, as some of your experiences would be difficult to label as fun at first occurrence?

Humour is important to me. One would say it enriches my work. I would say it defines me. Even when I write about death I could make my audience laugh. As to my real experiences yes, they made me smile a lot. Like when that goat urine sprayed my shirt. Question is which is easier: get angry and take all those responsible to task (including the goat) or laugh it off.  I choose humour, any day.

For those of us who are fortunate enough to have travelled to the three northern regions of Ghana, your description brought some form of nostalgic feelings. It was so vivid and picturesque that for one moment I thought I was revisiting. I lost myself completely in the narrative allowing my mind to roam the Savannah. How did you piece all these together? Were you keeping some form of diary?

I like this question. I had travelled the place close to seven years. Some of the impressions thus become familiar and entrenched. So even when you are woken up at midnight, blinded folded and asked to relate a scenario it comes easy. Other experiences were just one-offs like the hippo sanctuary safari at Wechiau. Yes, carrying a diary helps but a mental one was most useful.

Wechiau is a place I would love to visit one day. Not necessarily because of the hippo sanctuary but the use of cowries for certain business transactions and the exchange rate there. That information somehow told me that at least we are not all lost to this monstrosity we call civilization, which keeps heaping upon problems of monumental proportions. How did you warm yourself into the places you visited and into the hearts of the people you met?

Simple. Be myself and respect the other person. Everything else becomes easy. One thing I also did was to get a local guide. People feel important when you show them that you are ignorant and you want to know.

This interesting book presents fresh views of an area most Ghanaians in the south have never visited and probably would never visit. The place has always been associated with chieftaincy conflicts and poverty. Would you say this your presentation would get people visiting?

I hope it does. But what’s more important is the renewal of minds about the place. Anyone who reads A Sense of Savannah will see the positive side as well.

Most often when Westerners are coming to Africa (they always come to Africa, forgetting – naturally – that Africa is not a country) they are wont to read Conrad’s The Heart of Darkness or perhaps now they would be reading Naipual’s The Masque of Africa. How much justice would you say this book has done to neutralize these diabolic Conradic and Naipualic tales?

I believe people think what they want to think. True, they are influenced by what they are exposed to, still, the final decision is theirs. I want to believe that with an open mind, one should realize that people are the same everywhere. It is only the environment which makes the difference.

How do you feel after the publishing your book? Do you feel accomplished? Is the popularity increasing?

I am not a woman but I believe this is how they feel after they have delivered a baby. I feel I have downloaded something important that took a long time to form. Accomplished?  No. Just ‘finished with this one’ and looking for the next. Popularity? A few people claim I look familiar or my name sounds familiar. Is that how it begins? You tell me.

Was it difficult getting published?

You bet it was and I am still counting the cost.

How wide is the book distributed? Where could readers and future tourists go for copies?

It is in the capitals of the three northern regions. In Accra, Legon bookshop, silver bird bookshop, accra mall, Baatsona Total shop (Spintex Road), SEDCO bookshop, EPP, Wild Gecko, etc.

Now your last word… tell us something. How should your book be read?

It should be read like a tour guide, a novel and an autobiography. My last word? It is possible, always.

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Read the review here

Read an excerpt of the new book here

Excerpt of Tickling the Ghanaian by Kofi Akpabli

On August 26, 2011, at the British Council auditorium, Kofi Akpabli, author of A Sense of Savannah: Tales from a Friendly Walk through Northern Ghana, launched his second book, Tickling the Ghanaian: Encounters with Contemporary Culture. In this book Kofi seeks to unravel what at all tickles the Ghanaian. Is it Sunday afternoon's after church Omo Tuo and beer, or when Ghana is 'beating' its arch-rivals in sports, Nigeria? Articles in this book include the two that won him the CNN/Multichoice Journalist Award for Arts and Culture back to back in 2010 and 2011, becoming the first journalist, in the award's history, to have won one category back to back: The Serious Business of Soup in Ghana and What is right with Akpeteshie. Following his usual humorous style of writing, Tickling the Ghanaian promises to be funny and educating. Kofi takes a different view of what we have perceived as always to be archaic. Kofi has eyes of details and tells his story the best way it could possibly be told.

At the launch were Nana Professor S.K.B Asante, Dr Esi Sutherland, Dr Kwaku Boakye - a senior lecturer at the University of Cape Coast (who was the reviewer) and Mr. Edward Boateng - Executive Chairman and Group CEO of Global Media Alliance. The book is currently available in all bookshops in the country.

How Cloths Tickle the Ghanaian

In today’s global village many would find it hard to understand why we make such a fuss about cloths. But the truth is that in Ghanaian society cloths mean the world. Beyond  adding style and colour to our fashion sense their usage also reflects a range of values. Clothes also serve  as mediums to convey traditional symbols and messages. While the utility value of cloths are almost endless a bulk of our proverbs  and riddles are derived from them. In this discourse, find out what some folks do when they have a cloth and desire to express a particular  gesture.

Ghanaman and the Rastaman - A Hair-Witness Account

This is a discourse on Ghanaians’ attitude to the rasta phenomenon. It is narrated through the writer’s own ‘hair witness’ account. Carrying the rasta hair-do from England to the ‘Motherland’ he evokes a range of emotions from people. Do you become a special person when you carry the Rasta image? There is also a psychological upper hand that one gains in close encounters. Find out what happened on the few times that people stepped on my toes and raised their head only to notice my rasta.

The Serious Business of Soup in Ghana

This award winning article takes the lid off the soup pot to reveal intriguing aspects of the Ghanaian character. When others sit at table they flaunt starter stuff, main dish, sauce, vegetables, lamb and the works. With us, it is all in the soup. Ghanaians love their soup. However, as it turns out, it is not everywhere that soup is king.  Even in our West African neighbourhood, not everyone gives soup the attention it deserves. Bottomline? As soup-eriors in continental liberation, Ghanaians must continue to cherish their soup culture and make our nation great and strong. 

The Rise of The Schnapps

No one walks to the bar to buy and drink schnapps. No one even serves it to friends when they visit. But due to a combination of factors, Schnapps has risen to become one of Ghana’s most important alcoholic beverages. The relationship between alcohol and power is well grounded in colonial history. When Europeans visited our shores to trade, their bargaining chips included exotic bottles of refined alcohol. Drinks such as Schnapps thus shared the same status symbols as guns. Schnapps may not be many people’s favourite drink but it is like medicine that must be drunk to keep cultural relations whole.

Between Tinapa and Boflot- Where did the old  Taste go?

This discourse deals with taste and memory or better still the memory of taste. The meat of the matter is a simple question. Did our foods taste better in the past? The story also proposes the promotion of Ghanaian snacks and dishes which seems to be losing ground. This discourse reminisce akukor mmensa. And wonders why ‘ojenma’ pepper has stopped being a thriller.  Is it the fertilizer or it is climate change? Or it is Christmas chicken tasting wrong. 

Dongomi … Albarika- the  Ghanaian Art of Bargaining

One thing tourists and other visitors to Ghana seem never able to grasp is the way we bargain over goods and services. When a price is quoted, the seller rather goes on to ask how much the buyer would like to pay. We bargain not because we cannot afford but because we must. Indeed, for certain items it would be rude if you didn’t ask for discount. While we trace the history of bargaining discourse we discover how ‘‘Albarika’’ a term denoting discount became linked to Adabraka, an Accra suburb.

Things We Do For Rings

How come some things escape your attention and against all odds, manage to remain outside your understanding? Do you have such a grey area; something ordinary yet you never have been able to figure out? I do. Wedding rings, engagement rings, promissory rings and the lot. In Ghana, our forebears didn’t bother one bit about rings. But as with many habits we have adopted, we’ve taken it to levels that would surprise the originators. Thing about rings is they mean a m to the F side of the gender scale. Why for instance, would a lady wear her engagement ring while she has the wedding band on?  But are rings able to do what they are supposed to do? That is the 14- carat question.

The Truth about Fufu

In Ghana, we express serendipity by saying that ‘fufu has fallen into soup.’ This article shows how Fufu is a rallying point for families. For many enthusiasts fufu is life. It’s life attributes are typified by the mortar and pestle which  are analogous to the copulation that leads to procreation. All said and done, fufu is not only about finger licking and tummy filling. According to a local myth, the fufu story is central to the creation of the world!

Ghana vrs. Naija- Rubbing shoulders with a Giant

When it comes to West African neighbours that come closest in likeness to Ghanaians,  Nigeria offers a paradoxical prospect. In one sense, they are like us but in another... Nigerians are so interestingly different. In recent times Ghana’s showbiz scene reflects a huge dose of Naija influence. It’s all good. But there is only one  problem- we Ghanaians hardly have it in our heads that we are a small country. All we know is that ours is a very, very important nation, abi?

Batakari Has Spoken

The Fugu smock is the most distinctive dress from Northern Ghana. Also known in southern Ghana as batakari, Fugu has evolved from a native wear to a recognisable fashion statement awaiting its turn at the international catwalk. In Ghana, the Fugu smock assumed great significance when President Nkrumah chose to wear it in declaring Ghana’s independence. Indeed, a look at the dais on the historic moment of 6^th March 1957 would show that all his aides were in Fugu. Find out the reason for this dress code on the most important day of a nation’s life.

Why  Kokonte is facing the Wall

There are issues concerning aspects of our culture that colonialism and our religious experiences have stigmatised. There are also issues which we have blacklisted because …well we really don’t know. The story of kokonte is one such matter. Check this: give the Ghanaian a ‘behind closed doors’ treat of hot kokonte with groundnut or palm not soup with okro representing. The beneficiary will come out sweaty and gratified after having  swallowed and licked the fingers. But suggest to this same individual to serve kokonte at his own birthday party and the excuses would begin...

What is right with Akpeteshie?

With an active grass root loyalty, Akpeteshie is one of  the most recognisable alcoholic brands in Ghana. However, all has never been well. For the right or wrong reasons the drink was outlawed in the past. Does this account for the defiance character Akpeteshie and its drinkers are associated with? Akpeteshie also has a very serious value proposition- that of faithfully serving Ghanaian traditional culture. This award-winning article shows why the love of Akpteshie makes some grown-ups weep, while others hate it with self-righteous anger. Most importantly, where does the law stand?

This is the way we say Good Bye

Funerals are big part of Ghanaian culture. They allow us to show  the bereaved family that they are not alone. Today’s funeral process, however, is becoming a complex, money churning enterprise. This story explores the various types of Ghanaian funerals. Because a huge chunk of the average person’s savings (and borrowing) goes into funerals, the discourse raises issues which challenge the status quo. For instance, how does it make sense to lay the dead in an expensive casket only to deface it because thieves would dig it up? In some cases, contractors and professional mourners are recruited. Find out what happens when these enthusiasts arrive at the wrong funeral! Interestingly, the ‘funeral segment’ is the biggest chunk in Ghanaians’ participation in domestic tourism… Talk about fun in funeral.

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I would be reviewing the book soon. Read my review here.

84. A Sense of Savannah: Tales of a Friendly Walk through Northern Ghana by Kofi Akpabli

Title: A Sense of Savannah: Tales of a Friendly Walk through Northern Ghana

Author: Kofi Akpabli

Publishers: TREC

Genre: Travelogue

Year of Publication: 2011

Pages: 150

Country: Ghana

At a time when local tourism has been reduced to annual school excursions to manufacturing plants in Accra and Tema, Kofi Akpabli has opened to the general Ghanaian public and the world at large the beauty locked within a place that's hardly ever travelled to by most Ghanaians, the northern regions comprising Northern Region, Upper East Region and Upper West Region. In this tour-guide cum travelogue, Kofi Akpabli documents his personal experience of travelling to these seemingly remote places in Ghana, mixing his experience with facts. The results of which is a well-crafted book that points to beautiful tourist destinations and the excellent human relations exuded by the people he met.

In A Sense of Savannah Kofi tried to present to us a different narrative, one that those who have never travelled to these regions and whose perspective of that part of Ghana is shaped and reshaped anytime news of conflicts jumped out of their ghetto blasters. And this Kofi succeeded to such an extent that even we who are fortunate enough to have visited the area seem to revisit and live it all over again. 

Written in a humourous style, making sure that every sentence makes you 'emit loud, embarassing laughs' Kofi takes us on a mental journey through northern Ghana so that from his clear and imagistic narrative we forget that it is only a mental journey and that we are where we were when the book was opened for reading. From "Way West to Wechiau" to "A Pilgrimage to Paga" we travel with Kofi as he explores the beautiful landscapes of the region. In the former he tells us the class of animals hippos belong to and why they 'sweat' oil. He also never forgot to mention of the birds whose songs he heard on the serene Black Volta, whilst pointing out how those imaginary international boundaries/borders dissolve into nothingness when you live in these places; how the locals have come to live in close proximity with these 4,000kg 'wild' animals and yet have not feasted on them; how he was afraid and his reaction when he saw a family of hippos.

...the hippo is among the most dangerous and aggressive of all animals. It is considered Africa's most dangerous. When you put a bullet through it, for instance, you must be prepared to chase miles after it before you can get its body (that is, if it falls at all). As a hippo's anger grows it keeps 'yawning' and then, shows its big teeth. A hippo's jaws are capable of biting a 10-foot crocodile into two. Any question?

It is facts such as these mixed with the author's personal experience of the animals and the place he visited that makes A Sense of Savannah a very unique book worth having.

Unlike those Naipaulic and Conradic tales and those commercialised tales and stories told about Africa where all that's narrated are the Safari with its wild lions and elephants and how the writer almost fell into a ditch but for his or her determination to survive would have been chewed by a lion, Kofi in this travelogue cum tour-book described the warmness of the people of the north. He never entered there with a prejudiced mind. He entered there with a mind so open that he saw the little things that makes the north tick, like market days which fall on Sundays called 'Sunday High'. So that we celebrate Christmas with the people in "Christmas in Hamile" and Valentine in "A Savannah Valentine". In "Bawku the Beautiful" the author writes as a prologue to the chapter:

The indifference of New York

The business savvy of Kumasi

The ethnic diversity of Nima

Bawku, Beauty is thy name 

Invitation to pito - locally brewed beer - drinking was abundant and with the right attitude friends are easily made. The successes of the people and their challenges are presented in equal measure. In "Sirigu Success Story" we meet a wonderful woman Madam Melanie Kasise who on reaching retirement age refused to bend to the dictates of old age but gathered the women in her community, Sirigu, to form the Sirigu Women Organisation for Pottery and Art (SWOPA). So famous is the success of this 300-women organisation that the former United Nations General Secretary, Kofi Annan, visited them, where his bust still stands today.

Making nonsense of the prejudicial, parochial, single-story narratives about Africa that have pervaded every media outlet, Kofi with this book has provided a fresh alternative narrative about these places in Ghana and, perhaps if one is quick enough to apply this to other places, in Africa as a whole. For those who love to travel or to read about places, those who seek to understand a people from the people's own perspective and not buying into the usual stereotypic narrative by those whose philosophy in life is 'if it is not like mine, it isn't worth it', if you are one of those then this book is for you. However, if you are not tired of reading the single-story of Africa, its backwaters, its mountainous problems, and the zombies who inhabit the place, if this is your ideal fantasy novel or book, then stay clear off this book. It isn't for you.

For those who would purchase this book, be very careful before you read, especially "Bolgatanga to Kumasi by GPRTU" and "Kumasi to Bolgatanga by GPRTU (State of Emergency)", for there is a caution at the back, which reads:

For fear of emitting loud, embarrassing laughs do not read this book in public

This book is available in most book-selling shops in Ghana.

_________________________

Brief Bio: Kofi Akpabli is a communication professional and a journalist whose special interests are triangled between tourism, culture and the environment. Whether he is covering a 9/11 memorial on Ground Zero in New York or discovering traditional taboos in Ghana's Upper West Region, human interest is ever his soft spot. Happily as he uncovers the intrigues of the human situation, humour never seems to leave him alone. (Source)

In April 2010 Kofi Akpabli was nominated as a finalist in the CNN/Multichoice African  Journalist Awards Programme. He won the best journalist in the Arts and Culture category with his piece The Serious Business of Soup in Ghana. He again won this award in the same category last Saturday, June 25 2011, with his article What is right with Akpeteshie. The citation following Mr. Akpabli’s award read: 

“Kofi Akpabli’s story uses the most enriching and fantastic language to explain why Akpeteshie, a local brew, is the equivalent of a liquid national heritage. Kofi not only educates and enlightens us to the history and best practices of this national beverage – but he also does it with humour and style. A worthy return winner.” (Source) 

ImageNations Rating: 5.5 out of 6.0

Picture Speaks: At the Launch of Kofi Akpabli's Humorous Travelogue, A Sense of Savannah - Tales of a Friendly Walk Through Northern Ghana

The second Picture Speaks in the past two yeas features a shot from the launch of Kofi Akpali's humorous travelogue: Sense of Savannah, Tales of a Friendly Walk through Northern Ghana.

In the Middle is M. K. B. Asante, a renowned Diplomat and Statesman, followed by the author Kofi Akpabli (in spectacles). The Book was launched at the National Theatre on March 31, 2011 and copies are currently available at all Bookshops in Ghana: Silverbird, Legon Bookshop etc.

A Sense of Savannah Tales from a Friendly Walk through Northern Ghana by Kofi Akpabli

A new, witty, travelogue by CNN/Multichoice African Journalist for Arts and Culture, Kofi Akpabli, is about to be launched. The launch date is Wednesday March 30, 2011. Writing in his very usual manner, Kofi warns at the back of the book

Caution: For fear of emitting loud, embarrassing laughs do not read this book in public.

Again, I quote what led to the writing of this book. From the back cover:

When Kofi Akpabli was posted to the northern border town of Paga to do his national service he thought it was just going to be another 'national suffering.' But when he encountered love at first sight with the landscape and the people, he was soon to realise that something close to destiny tied him to the place. The author was welcomed to a world refreshingly different from the back streets of Accra and Cape Coast. He discovered the smell of dawadawa, the taste of pito, and the mystery of border towns. Over a period of seven years, Kofi criss-crossed the Upper East, Upper West and the Northern Regions. His real life adventures have been published in a cross-section of Ghanaian newspapers. By popular requests, here comes A Sense of Savannah, a witty collection of travel tales that best express the character of Ghana's savannah setting.

 A synopsis:

Way West to Wechiau

Kofi Akpabli

This is the hard core, nature lover’s dream expedition.  The object of chase is the hippopotamus, the largest mammal on land after the elephant. The vehicle to accomplish the mission is a narrow, 15 foot canoe dug out of mahogany. A river safari on the Black Volta, provides an unforgettable experience. Find out what happens at the moment of truth when the beast rears its ugly head.

Plus, there is more in this idyllic setting nestled between Ghana, Burkina Faso and La Cote D’ivoire. Also, learn about the Lobis who used to pierce the lips of their women. But that was then. Today, of course, a young Lobi lady would rather have her lips greased with designer lip shine.

Plus, do you know that there are people in Ghana who still spend cowries as a currency? A stroll at Hamile market stumbles across a Forex Bureau where you are asked if you want cedis or cowries. How does it play out when the ‘Chancellor’ of this Forex Bureau also sells cola nuts?

A Market Day in Navrongo

Ordinarily, a market day is a normal activity. But when it is also the platform for marriage, naming and other social ceremonies, then it becomes one big communal celebration. The Navrongo market day occurs every fourth day. But do not despair if you don’t have a calendar to keep up. When in the morning you see a young man pull a herd of goats, followed by an old man with a guinea fowl tucked under his armpit, next rides a boy in a donkey cart who overtakes a woman carrying a pan of shea butter… 

This discourse takes readers through what happens on a typical market day in Navrongo. But in the heat, and noise and spirited interactions, a place such as the Navrongo Police Station is not spared the action. The peace post receives a fair amount of the market share, as it were…

Christmas in Hamile

Hamile, the north westernmost part of Ghana might not be your ideal travel address for Christmas. However, when this destination was put to the Yuletide test, the result is an unforgettable experience that Accra may never provide. Here, a greeting such as ‘‘Barika da Christmas’’ is not a cultural shock but an admission of a shared heritage.

In Hamile, the pito drinking session is a kingly treat as the lady servers actually bow to present you with your calabashful. Also, experience a free sample of the Christmas atmosphere in Nandom, Larwa and Wa. Check all this out, and you would wonder why some people spend all their Christmas in the city.

A Savannah Valentine

Over the last decade, the media and an aggressive market place have made Valentines’ day a big social deal in Ghanaian society ‘‘Love is Contagious’’, says  the words of a song, and Tamale, has also been caught up in the Valentine web. This narrative captures how the foremost Northern Ghana city celebrated one such event.

This article is a running commentary on what went on where from midday until… well, Valentine expired. Faced with an influx of young lovers all dressed up in red, how does a poor, old Hausa kooko seller assess the event? And, oh, after all was said and done, what happened to the narrator himself in Room No. 26, Hamdalla Guest House on Valentine midnight?

Bawku the Beautiful

Frankly, the first word that comes to mind when Bawku is mentioned should not be conflict. This is one area in Ghana that nature has actually spoilt with beauty. For characterisation, Bawku possesses the indifference of New York, the business savvy of Kumasi and the live-and-let-live-in-spite-of-ethnic-diversity of Nima.  If you are wondering just how special Bawku can be then ask yourself this: how many places in Ghana share boundaries with two different countries?

From the moment the author arrived in town, with the instinct of a thirsty stranger, one interesting encounter led to another. Take the Yarigungu area which is enclosed by a lovely chain of hills. This stretch of highland is actually known as Agol, the protector god. His wife, the river goddess Agolok flows below. The children of ‘Mr. and Mrs. Agol’ are the blessed, little crocodiles in the river. And of course, they all live happily together ever after.....

Bolga to Kumasi by GPRTU

Gateway. That is the one word that underscores the importance of Kumasi to northern Ghana. As the nearest big city, it means more in several respects than Accra. Even for those hustlers who have the capital as the final destination, Kumasi is where to transit, learn the ropes and earn the passage.

                                                                                                  

A journey from Bolgatanga to Kumasi on a GPRTU bus, turns out to be a very important teaching experience. For example, if one wants to quantify the volume of akpeteshie that is quaffed in the Upper East Region, the best place to begin the survey would be the GPRTU Kumasi station at Bolgatanga. But the lessons are not limited to research. A course in long suffering also gets some credit hours. What other choice is there when one is trapped on a rickety bus, in an all night long journey and the co-passengers profile includes the following: a blind professional beggar with white cane and boy guide, some quarrelsome kayayes, a barber with scissors on the ready and a khebab seller travelling with his iron grill. Final lesson: sometimes, drama travels on wheels.

The Sirigu Success Story

What could make United Nations Secretary General Kofi Annan leave his heavy UN schedules in New York to come all the way to Sirigu to interact with local women weaving baskets? ‘‘Inpiration’’ is not a bad guess. Sirigu used to be a poverty stricken savannah community until a retired old teacher, Madam Melanie Kasise found her long forgotten undergrad long essay among her old stuff. Her project work was on reviving the dying wall art of Sirigu. She brought out the book, dusted it and said ‘‘no’’ to a boring retirement life. Madam Kasise has never looked back since. She mobilised local women and now her Sirigu Women Organisation for Pottery and Art (SWOPA) has 300 young and old members. 

 SWOPA also aims at providing simple but quality tourist services. The compound houses a museum, workshop, restaurant and a traditionally styled four-room guesthouse. Today, SWOPA has become the centre of community life. At night, secondary school chaps visit to study under solar light. At dawn, children come to draw water from the borehole. And during the day, this same place is overrun by mothers who have all come to assert their craftwomanship.

A Pilgrimage to Paga

Perhaps, no area has more relics and landmarks related to the Trans Atlantic Slave Trade than the northern regions of Ghana. Historians tell us that the bulk of the slaves were caught from the area. The border town of Paga Nania has a former slave camp that continues to attract all levels of interest. The Paga-Nania Slave Camp is sited on a huge area of rock known as Pinkworo ‘‘the Rocks of Fear.’’ With thick vegetation cover, the spot proved an ideal hideout.

The horrific event of the slave trade took a new meaning the day a group of 14 African-Americans arrived at Paga to re-discover home. Ever the true Ghanaians, the people and their chiefs, slaughtered a sheep, poured libation and served a delicious dish of hot African dance. What happened when an inexplicable spirit drew the African-Americans to the floor to do the Nagla dance? Talk about soul music.

Kumasi to Bolga (State of Emergency)

Some adventures never seem to leave you alone. A return trip from Kumasi to the north turns out not only more dramatic but reveals further insight into the people and systems that run our society. And then what happens when due to a security alert the journey is interrupted and the ‘‘son of man’’ has to spend the night on the hard, cold street and among very strange strangers? Another lesson: at the height of the helplessness of the human situation, comfort comes from the most unlikely places. This time, from the radio set of a tea drinking, Bin Laden apparelled gang. Ever heard of Wangara lullaby?

  

Drop me at Abavana Junction

This is an up close encounter with a man who helped Nkrumah to administer newly independent Ghana. The popular Abavana Junction at Kotobabi in Accra is named after L.R. Abavana (Esq.), but the interaction took place in Navrongo where he hails from. Coming shortly before the 82 year old passed away, the interview touched on his service to the nation as Minister holding a total of five portfolios.

An athlete in his days and a tennis freak, our hero was actually nicknamed ‘‘Lightening.’’  He reminisced the doubles he played alongside Kwame Nkrumah against Kojo Botsio and Gbedemah.  Find out the particular joke President  Nkrumah used to play on this humble man each time he bumped into him on the corridors of flagstaff house where they both shared an office. Hint: it begins with Nkrumah sniffing Abavana’s pocket.

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I would be interviewing the author and reviewing the book on this platform, so keep visiting. Note that the book would be launched on Wednesday March 30, 2011. Visit Kofi's personal website here. Read his funny, rib-breaking, award-winning article on soup titled The Serious Business of Soup in Ghana knowing that there is more in the book.